The small bottle fits well next to the cream. Things get more difficult with the names: Niacinamide, Ceramide, PDRN. Every package has something on it that sounds interesting. The only question that remains open is what you could start with.

Maybe she can be approached from the other side. What should change for you when applying cream? You are looking for a more pleasant texture, want to classify visible blackheads or know what is behind a plant extract. This overview will guide you to the appropriate articles. You don’t have to memorize a list of ingredients.

When skin feels dry

Moisturizer serves several purposes. Water-binding components, so-called humectants, help the stratum corneum to retain water. Other ingredients make the surface more supple or reduce water loss. Several of these often work together in a finished cream. DermNet explains these tasks of moisturizer.

A familiar name is hyaluronic acid . Our existing article about hyaluronic acid for the skin introduces the topic. In addition, beta-glucan is written on some products. In the article Beta-glucan for the skin we look at what can be said about it and why a competition for the “strongest moisture” is of little help.

Ceramides belong to the skin lipids, i.e. the fats in the skin. You can read about what they have to do with the stratum corneum and how they differ from hyaluronic acid at Ceramides in skin care . A serum with a water-binding ingredient and a cream with lipids can complement each other. This doesn’t mean that you have to buy both separately: First, see what your existing care product contains.

If the package says Cica, Heartleaf or Panthenol

For Cica it is worth taking a look at Centella Asiatica and its components. You will encounter the name on very different textures. Our article Centella Asiatica and Cica helps you read the information and compare it with a simple moisturizer.

Heartleaf refers to Houttuynia cordata, a plant whose extract is used, for example, in toners. The connection between the name and the list of ingredients can be seen on the manufacturer’s website for the Anua Heartleaf toner . However, a plant name is neither a diagnostic aid nor a promise that a product will remain pleasant on your skin. The selection includes the other ingredients and your previous experiences.

Panthenol is often used in moisturizers. In a controlled study, certain formulations with dexpanthenol improved stratum corneum moisture and reduced water loss. The study provides an indication for these formulations, not a general repair promise for every product containing panthenol. Gehring and Gloor: Dexpanthenol and skin barrier

If familiar products burn, the next search for active ingredients is usually too early. The article When the skin is tight or burning is about classifying the situation and recognizing when medical advice makes sense.

If you are concerned about blackheads, spots or lines

Here it is particularly worthwhile to consider the concerns individually. A visible spot on the nose poses a different question than a brown spot after a pimple. Our overview What skin type do I have? also leads to these skin issues.

You will find four dedicated sections for the ingredients:

• Niacinamide: When it suits your care – including the differences to hyaluronic acid and the combination with vitamin C.
• Vitamin C: application, combinations and storage – with a look at why the specific formulation counts.
• Retinol and Retinal: What is the difference? – for selection, application instructions and special phases of life.
• AHA, BHA and PHA: Which peeling is suitable? – so that three abbreviations do not result in an additional peeling plan.

Azelaic acid also belongs to this classification. It is used dermatologically for acne, among other things, and can influence pigmentation. Such a medical application cannot be transferred to a cosmetic serum based on the name alone. Concentration, formulation and intended use are part of the assessment. In the case of skin irritations or preparations that have already been prescribed, the treating practice is the right point of contact. DermNet: Azelaic acid

If a particular name makes you curious

Not every choice starts with a problem. Maybe you like a light essence and just want to know more about what it contains. That’s what these articles are for:

• What is Snail Mucin? explains snail secretion filtrate and questions about its origin and vegan care.
• Ginseng, rice and green tea looks at three herbal ingredients without deriving a product effect from their popularity.
• PDRN, collagen and peptides separates the terms and explains why results from injections do not prove the effect of a serum.

Ten K-beauty active ingredients simply explained

For a quick overview, here are ten names that you come across while browsing. The short explanations describe their classification in cosmetic care. They are not a guarantee for every product that contains any of these substances.

1. Vitamin C: an antioxidant that is used in various forms in care. The shape and the finished recipe are part of the assessment. The Arencia Vitamin C Booster Shot , for example, contains the derivative 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. Vitamin C does not replace sun protection.
2. Niacinamide: a form of vitamin B3, which is found, among other things, in care for a more even-looking skin. More percent is not a general recommendation. The Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% Serum contains additional ingredients such as tranexamic acid.
3. Retinal: a form of vitamin A and intermediate in the conversion of retinol to retinoic acid. The name does not indicate particularly quick results or particularly mildness. We explain retinol and retinal in more detail here. Retinoid care is not used during pregnancy.
4. PDRN: the abbreviation for polydeoxyribonucleotides, i.e. DNA fragments. You will come across sodium DNA in cosmetic recipes. Research on injections does not demonstrate a corresponding effect of a serum. The product name does not provide any promise of DNA repair or new skin volume.
5. Hyaluronic acid: a water-binding component. Moisturizing can make dry skin appear more supple and dryness lines less noticeable. A cream is not a filler that builds volume from the inside.
6. Centella asiatica: a plant whose extracts and individual components are used in care; Cica is a common name in this environment. The rest of the recipe also decides. Centella cream can also contain fragrances or retinol.
7. Azelaic acid: an ingredient found in both cosmetic serums and pharmaceuticals. These products are not the same. The Anua Azelaic Acid 10 Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum is a cosmetic example and not a replacement for a medically prescribed treatment. Irritation is possible.
8. Peptides: short chains of amino acids. This collective term includes various substances with different tasks. A peptide in the list alone does not provide evidence of lifting or irritation-free care.
9. Panthenol: also called provitamin B5. It is used, among other things, in moisturizing care. This does not result in a blanket promise of healing or repair for injured skin.
10. Ceramides: Lipids, i.e. fats that also belong to the stratum corneum barrier. The Anua 3 Ceramide Panthenol Moisture Barrier Cream contains ceramides NP, AP and EOP in the list of ingredients. You don’t necessarily need another care step if your cream already fits well.

Your existing serum may already cover several of these names. Before you add one more, our FAQ on combining niacinamide, azelaic acid and vitamin C will help. A clear routine is easier to assess.

Several care requirements in one serum

The Torriden DIVE-IN Low Molecular Hyaluronic Acid Serum has hyaluron in its name. The current shop ingredients list also includes glycerin, panthenol, ceramide NP and beta-glucan. If you want more moisture under your cream, this serum combines several of the ingredients discussed in one step. This makes it easy to get started: a new bottle that you can try out in your usual routine.

How much of an ingredient is contained cannot be reliably determined from its mere presence. To read the order, our existing article on the 1% rule in skincare will guide you further.

Feel free to bring the products you already use or a photo of the back of them to a consultation. Then we can build on something specific: a cream you like, an ingredient you avoid, or that one question that remained unanswered while reading.

What we know for sure

• Moisturizer can combine multiple tasks and ingredient groups in one formulation.
• Active ingredient names alone do not result in a suitable combination plan.
• Studies on individual formulations do not automatically prove that every product contains the same ingredient.
• Cosmetic product selection does not replace the clarification of persistent complaints.

Sources

• DermNet: Emollients and moisturizers
• Gehring and Gloor: Dexpanthenol, skin moisture and barrier function
• DermNet: Azelaic acid
• Anua: Heartleaf 77 Soothing Toner

Product information checked on September 17, 2026. The current labeling and instructions on your package are decisive.