The pimple has long since disappeared, but its location can still be seen in the mirror. Maybe as a pinkish dot, maybe as a brownish spot. Anyone looking for care will quickly end up with a whole range of serums, all of which promise something different.

“Pimple mark” describes when a change occurred. Whether a reddish trace or increased pigment remains makes a difference in terms of care.

Reddish, brown or a modified surface?

After an inflamed pimple, reddish, flat spots may remain. Technically this is called post-inflammatory erythema, i.e. redness after inflammation. Changes in small blood vessels are seen as part of the explanation. DermNet: Color changes after acne

In brown, sometimes grey-brown spots , however, increased levels of stored melanin, the pigment in our skin, may be involved. This post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation can occur after inflammation or injury and can be more pronounced and last longer in darker skin tones. A brown pimple mark is a possible form of a pigment spot. DermNet: Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation

A small depression or a raised area also affects the skin structure and can be a scar. However, flat traces of color are not automatically scars. Color and structure can also be changed together; The classification when looking in the mirror therefore remains limited. AAD: Acne scars

When it comes to skincare selection, this means: A serum that is intended for a more even skin tone does not have the same task for each of these changes. And a newly discovered spot doesn’t have to be from a forgotten pimple.

First, the care that has proven itself in everyday life

If you are concerned about the stains, your first step should still be to use the products that are already there. Is cleaning pleasant? Does the cream fit? Do you find a sunscreen that you like to apply in the morning? These questions help more than comparing five active ingredient names.

Additional irritation can itself promote new dark traces. Strong rubbing or a product that repeatedly stings are therefore not a shortcut to a more even complexion. If new, inflamed pimples are an issue, the cause must also be taken into account. The AAD explains this connection between irritation, inflammation and pigmentation .

Our article What skin type do I have? will help you with the rest of your routine. For recurring acne, you will find the boundary between cosmetic support and treatment in What K-Beauty can accompany and where medicine begins .

Sun protection has a permanent place

UV radiation can darken post-inflammatory pigmentation. DermNet recommends daily broad-spectrum protection with SPF 50+ for affected, uncovered skin, i.e. protection against UVA and UVB radiation. DermNet: Sun protection for pigmentation

For dark spots, tinted sun protection with iron oxides can also be useful: The pigments supplement the protection against visible sunlight, which can also contribute to pigmentation. The AAD recommends wearing a hat when outside and reapplying sunscreen regularly, approximately every two hours and after swimming or sweating. AAD: Dark spots and sun protection

The right shade and a pleasant feeling on the skin are practical selection criteria. A tube that is left lying around every morning is of little help to you in everyday life.

If you want to complement a serum

Niacinamide is a cosmetic option for uneven skin tone. In a small controlled study, a moisturizer containing five percent niacinamide showed improvements in hyperpigmentation. A specific formulation was examined; This does not mean that the same result can be derived for every niacinamide serum. Hakozaki et al., British Journal of Dermatology

According to the manufacturer, the AXIS-Y Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum contains five percent niacinamide as well as glycerin and squalane. It combines niacinamide with moisturizing and emollient ingredients in one serum step – interesting if you want to care for brown pimple marks and keep your routine clear. Its list of ingredients also includes rosemary leaf oil. If you specifically avoid this ingredient, a different formulation will better suit your choice. AXIS-Y: Product and complete ingredients

Beforehand, also look at your existing care: it may already contain niacinamide. You don’t have to add the same ingredient in multiple steps just because it’s on another bottle.

You can find selected serums, creams and sun protection for this care focus under Reduce pigment spots .

How much patience is realistic?

Traces of color after acne can disappear over months or longer. A fixed date cannot be promised for this. DermNet: History of color changes

If you want to capture changes, occasionally taking a photo in similar light can be more helpful than searching directly in front of the mirror every day. This is an option, not another item on a care list. You can decide how much attention you want to give the topic.

Two questions about azelaic acid

Can azelaic acid help with brown pimple marks?

Azelaic acid is used dermatologically for acne, among other things, and can also influence hyperpigmentation. This technical application cannot be applied across the board to every cosmetic product. You can discuss with a dermatological specialist whether medical treatment makes sense. DermNet: Azelaic acid

Can I simply add it to my other active ingredients?

It is not possible to determine a suitable combination from the active ingredient names alone. The decisive factors are the specific products, their application instructions and your skin. Azelaic acid can irritate; If there is severe burning, itching, redness or flaking, DermNet recommends stopping use and seeking medical advice. If care has already been prescribed, the supplement should be taken to the treating practice or pharmacy. DermNet: Application and possible reactions

When a spot should be looked at

Have a spot checked by a doctor if it changes in size, shape or color, bleeds or itches. A new, unusual location that remains for weeks also needs to be clarified. A care product cannot assume this assessment. NHS: Clarifying changes in the skin

What we know for sure

• Reddish traces of color, melanin-related pigmentation and scars differ in their formation.
• Sun protection is part of the care for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
• A tested ingredient is not proof of effectiveness for every finished product.
• Changes need a suitable classification; the color alone is not enough.

Sources

• DermNet: Acne scarring
• DermNet: Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation
• American Academy of Dermatology: Acne scars
• American Academy of Dermatology: How to fade dark spots in darker skin tones
• Hakozaki et al. (2002): Niacinamide and pigmentation
• AXIS-Y: Dark Spot Correcting Glow Serum
• DermNet: Azelaic acid
• NHS: Moles

Would you like to try a serum for dark spots ? The AXIS-Y serum presented above combines niacinamide with glycerin and squalane – interesting if you want your skin to feel smoother at the same time. Add sun protection to your care for pigment spots in the morning.

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