A little detective work often begins on the back of a cream. Water at the top, followed by humectants, oils or silicones. Further on, the order becomes more mysterious.

The so-called 1% rule helps when reading the INCI list. But it is not a boundary between effective and ineffective.

What does the rule really say?

According to Article 19 of Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 , the following applies to cosmetic products in the European Union:

Ingredients are generally named in descending order according to their weight at the time of addition. Ingredients with a concentration below 1% may appear after the substances above 1% in any order.

This means: The basic formula can usually be seen quite clearly at the beginning of the list. Further back you can no longer derive exact concentration from the position alone.

What the list does not reveal

The INCI list does not mark where the one percent range begins. Two substances listed directly next to each other can therefore have very different dosages. The exact amount of an active ingredient cannot usually be calculated from its position.

And: Less than one percent does not automatically mean ineffective. Some substances are deliberately given in low doses. Others need significantly higher amounts. The decisive factors are the respective active ingredient, the entire formulation, stability, packaging and the evidence that matches the advertising claim.

The first five ingredients tell a lot about the basis of a product. But they don’t tell the whole story.

What we know for sure

• The legal rule speaks of below 1% , not of a general effectiveness limit of 1%.
• Ingredients above 1% are generally listed in descending order of weight.
• Substances below 1% may then appear in any order. The exact threshold is not marked in the list.
• Dyes may also be listed in any order after the other cosmetic ingredients.
• A late place on the list alone cannot be proven to be effective or ineffective.

Source

• EUR-Lex: Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, Article 19(1)(g)