An orange buoy first appears off the black lava coast of Jeju. Then a head in a black hood emerges from the water. A sharp breath, a basket full of shells – and shortly afterwards the woman disappeared between the waves again.

The Haenyeo – 해녀 – are often referred to as Jeju’s merwomen or mermaids. They don’t need a fishtail. They dive without oxygen equipment, know currents, weather and fishing grounds and collect, among other things, abalone and sea urchins.

Your story is not an old postcard. On Jeju, haenyeo still go into the sea today, some into old age. Since 2016, their culture has been part of UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage.

Women Reading the Sea

The most experienced haenyeo lead younger female divers. Knowledge is not only collected in books, but also passed on in the water: when a current changes. Which catch is big enough. When is it better to leave the sea alone?

According to UNESCO, female divers reach depths of up to ten meters and hold their breath for about a minute during each dive. Her work has helped shape the social status of women in Jeju. At the same time, community rules for protecting fishing grounds are part of this culture.

That almost sounds like a fairy tale. However, it is physically hard work in sun, wind and cold water.

And this is where the romantic shortcut to skincare ends. We don’t know what cream a particular haenyeo uses after diving. There is no secret Korean skincare routine that can be derived from her work.

But we can take a closer look at what skin experiences by the sea.

Sea water is not a toner

After bathing, skin sometimes feels smooth, sometimes dry and tight. Both are possible.

The research on salt and skin is not as clear as a quick beauty tip would like to claim. Controlled mineral-rich baths can be helpful for certain types of dry or atopic skin. However, a recent laboratory study on isolated stratum corneum showed that salt water can increase the mechanical tension during drying.

This doesn’t necessarily contradict itself. Sea water, a medically controlled saline solution and a long day at the beach are three different things. Skin condition, salt concentration, duration, sun, wind and friction change the result.

There is a simple rule for everyday life: If your skin burns or feels tight after the sea, don’t scrub it. Lukewarm fresh water, gentle cleansing and a suitable cream are usually the calmer answer.

Before bathing: Protection must withstand water

Cool water makes the sun appear more harmless. This does not make the UV radiation disappear.

For longer periods of time at the sea, a high level of protection against UVB and UVA radiation is essential for all uncovered areas of skin. When swimming, the product must be expressly marked as water-resistant or waterproof . A pleasant daily sun serum without this information is not automatically tested for bathing.

Sunscreen is applied generously and before spending time in the sun. Refill after swimming, sweating or drying off – even with a water-resistant product. Shade, clothing, hats and sunglasses remain part of the protection.

A Sun Stick can be handy on the go. As the sole basis, however, it is easy to apply too little product with a stick. Cream or lotion are usually easier for the first, even layer.

After the sea: calm down instead of persuading

Salt, sand and sunscreen do not have to stay on your skin in the evening.

First, the face is rinsed with lukewarm fresh water. A cleansing oil or balm can remove water-resistant sunscreen. A second cleanser is only necessary if residue remains or the skin feels comfortable with it. Squeaky cleanliness is not a sign of quality.

After that, a little is often enough:

1. A light serum or an ampoule with humectants and soothing ingredients such as glycerin, panthenol or Centella asiatica.
2. A cream that retains water in the stratum corneum. For dry, tight skin, ceramides, cholesterol, squalane or other lipids can be useful.
3. A break for retinoids, AHA, BHA and strong peels when skin is red or burning.

A sunburn is not dry skin in a bad mood. It is acute UV damage. Then you first get out of the sun, the skin is kept cool and gently cared for. Blisters, severe pain, fever or larger affected areas need to be medically clarified.

A little routine for a day by the sea

Before the water

1. Light moisturizer for when the skin needs it.
2. Apply water-resistant broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high SPF generously to the face, ears, neck, lips and all uncovered areas of the body.
3. Follow the treatment and application instructions on the product.

On the beach

1. If possible, seek shade and avoid the intense midday sun.
2. After bathing, sweating and drying, reapply sunscreen.
3. Do not exchange clothing and headgear for another layer of serum.

After water

1. Rinse off salt and sand with lukewarm fresh water.
2. Gently loosen and remove the water-resistant sunscreen.
3. Apply moisture to skin that is still slightly damp.
4. Finish with a light or rich cream – depending on what the skin actually needs.

The Haenyeo remind us that one cannot master the sea by underestimating it. A surprisingly similar thing applies to the skin.

What we know for sure

• The Jeju-Haenyeo culture was inscribed on the Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2016. UNESCO describes dives of up to ten meters without an oxygen mask as well as shared knowledge about the sea and fishing grounds.
• Sunscreen does not provide complete protection. EU recommendation 2006/647/EC requires protection against UVB and UVA and recommends reapplication, especially after swimming, sweating or drying off.
• The specified sun protection factor is determined under test conditions with 2 mg product per cm² of skin . A significantly smaller amount lowers the actual protection.
• DIN EN ISO 16217:2022-02 describes the water bath method for determining the water resistance of sunscreen products. DIN EN ISO 18861:2022-02 compares the SPF before and after a specified water immersion. “Waterproof” does not mean that the protection remains unchanged after swimming for any length of time.
• The effect of saline solutions on the skin depends on the composition, duration and skin condition. A controlled salt bath for atopic skin cannot be equated with a long day in sea water and sun.

Sources

• UNESCO: Culture of Jeju Haenyeo (women diverse)
• UNESCO: Transmission of Haenyeo culture through schools and the Haenyeo Museum
• EU Commission: Recommendation 2006/647/EC on the effectiveness of sunscreen products
• ISO 16217:2020: Water bath method for determining water resistance
• DIN EN ISO 18861:2022-02: Percentage of water resistance
• PubMed: Mechanical effects of salt water on the stratum corneum
• PubMed: Mineral-rich salt bath for atopic dry skin
• American Academy of Dermatology: Treat sunburn gently

Sun, salt & skin barrier

When bathing, explicitly confirmed water resistance counts. Afterwards, the skin primarily needs gentle cleansing and care that suits the current skin condition.

• medicube PDRN Pink Tone Up Sun Cream SPF50+ PA++++ 50 ml – waterproof according to the product page; as an even sun protection base for the face and neck. Contains fragrance and a visible tone-up effect, so not the most inconspicuous choice for every skin type.
• TOCOBO Vita Waterproof Sun Stick SPF50+ PA++++ 18 g – waterproof stick for refilling in easily accessible areas; not intended as a sparingly applied replacement for the base.
• SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Light Cleansing Oil 200 ml – emulsifying cleansing oil for dissolving sunscreen and make-up.
• SKIN1004 Centella Teca Ampoule 50 ml – light moisturizing step with glycerin, allantoin, Centella components and Ceramide NP.
• AESTURA Atobarrier 365 Cream 80 ml – richer final care with glycerin, squalane, cholesterol and ceramide NP for dry or barrier-weakened skin.