At midday the forehead shines. The nose maybe earlier. A powder paper helps briefly – and a few hours later the shine is back.

This can be oily skin. But it can also be skin that is being cleaned too hard, irritated or hidden under a heavy cream. Before a new active ingredient is absorbed, it is worth asking a calmer question: What does the skin do on normal days?

How to recognize oily skin

Oily skin produces a comparatively large amount of sebum over a long period of time. A noticeable shine is typical not only on the nose and forehead, but also on the cheeks or chin. Pores can appear more visible. Blackheads and inflammatory blemishes are more common, but they don’t have to be one of them.

Monitor your skin for several days using simple, familiar care. A single shiny forehead after exercise, summer heat or a rich sunscreen does not determine your skin type.

Also important: Oily skin can be dehydrated at the same time. Then it shines and still feels tense, rough or sensitive. Tallow does not replace water – and aggressive degreasing rarely solves this problem.

First recognize the skin condition

If the skin is suddenly much oilier than usual, it may not be the skin type that has changed, but rather the skin condition. New products, frequent peeling, stress, hormones, medications or the climate can play a role.

Burning, severe redness, painful lumps or scars do not simply indicate “oily skin”. Acne, rosacea or an irritated skin barrier need their own classification. If the symptoms persist or are severe, a dermatological examination is advisable.

Stabilizing the basic routine

K-Beauty is often told about many steps. For oily skin, the best start is often shorter.

In the morning

1. Clean your face with lukewarm water or a mild cleanser.
2. Apply a light moisturizer – for example as a gel or lotion.
3. Finish with a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

In the evening

1. Gently remove sunscreen and make-up. If necessary, follow with a mild water-based cleaner.
2. Apply a light moisturizer.

The skin should feel clean afterwards, but not squeak. Highly foaming cleansers, coarse peelings and alcohol-rich toners can mattify the skin in the short term and at the same time irritate the skin barrier.

Give this base a little time. If shine and impurities calm down, perhaps it wasn’t a new active ingredient that was needed, but rather less turmoil in the bathroom.

Add at most one targeted active ingredient

If clogged pores and blackheads are the focus, salicylic acid – also called BHA – is an obvious candidate. It is fat-soluble and can dissolve dead horny cells in areas rich in sebum.

Start one or two evenings per week. Apply after cleansing and follow with a simple moisturizer. If the skin burns significantly, becomes flaky or remains red for a long time, take a break.

Niacinamide can be an alternative if shine and barrier care are more important. It is a form of vitamin B3 and can support barrier function and the appearance of oily skin. High percentages are not a seal of quality. Ten percent can be too much for sensitive skin.

Salicylic acid or niacinamide: Start with a new product. Otherwise, in the end you will only know that something happened – but not who was responsible for it.

Which probably doesn’t help

• Washing your face more often than necessary.
• Wanting to “dry” the skin with brushes, grain peels or strong alcohol.
• Multiple acids, retinoids and high-dose serums to begin at the same time.
• Always avoid moisturizing cream.
• Treat any shine like acne.

Pores cannot be opened and closed permanently. However, they can appear more noticeable if they are filled with sebum and horny cells. A calm approach to cleaning, moisturizing and a suitable active ingredient is therefore usually more sensible than daily fighting.

In brief

Oily skin shows significant shine and often more visible pores over a longer period of time. It can still be dehydrated and irritated.

The sensible approach is: Recognize skin condition, stabilize the basic routine and add at most one targeted active ingredient. Salicylic acid can help with blackheads. Niacinamide is a possible alternative for shine and barrier care. Severe or inflammatory symptoms do not belong in a product lottery, but in professional hands.

Lee’s fact note

• Sebum is part of the skin’s natural protective film. A lot of sebum does not automatically mean a lack of cleansing.
• Salicylic acid is fat-soluble and keratolytic: it supports the detachment of horny cells and can help with comedones.
• Niacinamide can support the skin barrier and the appearance of oily skin. Effect and tolerability depend on concentration and overall formulation.
• Oily skin also needs water and barrier protection. A light, non-comedogenic moisturizer may be useful.
• Cosmetics can accompany mild impurities, but do not replace diagnosis or acne therapy.

Sources

• American Academy of Dermatology: Building a simple basic routine
• American Academy of Dermatology: Cleaning your face properly
• PubMed: Salicylic acid in dermatology
• PubMed: Clinical evidence on topical niacinamide